Traditional Qipao

What are traditional Chinese dresses called?

Traditional Chinese dresses for women are commonly referred to as qipao, also known as cheongsam. The qipao is a form-fitting dress that became popular during the early 20th century in China and is characterized by its high mandarin collar, Chinese Pankou buttons, tight-fitting bodice, and a skirt that typically falls to the knees or lower. Qipao is a traditional Chinese dress that is considered a national symbol of China and holds a special place in Chinese history.

The term "qipao" originated from the Manchu language and was adopted into Mandarin Chinese. It consists of a combination of two words: "qi" and "pao" which can be translated as a banner gown or dress.

Those words refer to the banner system that was introduced by the emperor and the founder of the Manchu Qing dynasty Nurhaci. In the 17th century, he created the Eight Banners system for administrative and military divisions of China to strengthen military control and organization. This is how Manchus gained the reputation of the Banner people, while the long robes they wore started to be called "Banner robes" or "Qi Pao" in Chinese.

What is a traditional Qipao?

The traditional qipao, also known as a cheongsam, is a silk long dress that originated in China during the early 17th century. Contrary to the modern qipao the traditional qipao dress worn by Chinese women during the Qing dynasty had a remarkably different design and appearance. 

The original qipao had a loose fit and straight silhouette, while the long dress was reaching the floor. The authentic qipao dress was made with narrow and slightly flared sleeves and side slits that gave more freedom for movement. Another significant distinction from the modern qipao was the collar. The Qing Dynasty qipao had a flat round collar that is very different from the high mandarin collar of the modernized Shanghai-style qipao. Typically the traditional qipao was sewn of intricate materials with complex embroidery. 

Nowadays traditional Chinese wedding qipao is a popular choice of wedding gown for Chinese brides. This type of bridal qipao with mandarin collar is usually made in red-colored luxurious silk with elaborate symbolic golden embroidery. During the beautiful celebration brides wear traditional wedding qipao with sophisticated hairpieces such as a phoenix crown or Chinese hairpins with dangling beads or pearls. A red veil may be worn to cover the face during the ceremonial entrance, and the bride may also complete her look with elaborate golden jewelry.

What is the traditional Cheongsam history?

The cheongsam dress, also known as the qipao, has a rich and fascinating history that spans several centuries. Here's an overview of the evolution of the qipao dress over the years. The cheongsam originated during the Manchu-ruled Qing dynasty in the 17th century. The Manchu people, who were originally from northeastern China, introduced a new style of dress called the qipao or "banner gown". 

The Manchu qipao had a straight and loose silhouette with a round neckline that was decorated with elaborate embroidery. The original cheongsam dress during the Qing dynasty wasn’t very flattering to the women’s body and covered most of the body with its relaxed fit. Traditional qipaos had two to four side slits to make it easier to ride horses and move freely. The pre-revolutionary qipao gown was worn together with trousers by Manchurian women to protect the legs. 

In the 1910s qipao dress went through a significant transformation following the Chinese Revolution that ended the rule of the Qing dynasty. The student protests known as the May Fourth Movement were aimed against traditional Confucian values and raised ideas of feminism and gender equality in China. 

During the 1920s women began wearing modified qipao dresses as a statement to support feminine liberation. The qipaos started to be made out of lighter and more everyday-life wearable fabrics, contrary to the thick and embellished materials used for the traditional Qing dynasty qipaos. The cheongsam’s waist became a bit more defined yet still loose and relaxed and the sleeves of the dress were now shorter.  

The women’s qipao dresses reached their peak popularity in the 1930s, which is also known as the golden era of qipao. During that time Shanghai became a huge cosmopolitan city with huge economic influence in East Asia. Qipao history in Shanghai had an important meaning for the development of the iconic Chinese dress. Shanghainese craftsmen have innovatively combined Chinese signature elements of qipao together with Western fashion to create a modified version of the qipao dress.

Shanghai-style qipao became a fashion sensation in the 1930s with its tight-fitted waist, body-hugging silhouette, mandarin collar, and high-side slits that were a bit relieving the leg. The Chinese fashionistas and socialites created refined outfits with qipao dresses by pairing them with hats, pearls, fine jewelry, pin curls, furs, and silk scarves. The Shanghai-style cheongsam was known for its glamour and allure thanks to its elegant, seductive yet reserved silhouette that became its signature. The new design of the qipao of the 1930s was popularized in China through advertisement posters, calendars, and movies.

In the 1950s after the end of after Sino-Japanese War, cheongsam dress experienced its renaissance but this time in Hong Kong. The affluent Chinese families departed to Hong Kong where the Old Shanghai fashion qipao was resurrected. The qipao dress became even tighter with its narrow silhouette that was fitting women’s body like a glove. 

Hong Kong qipao styles often featured geometric and floral prints that were giving them a lively look. This era of qipao was beautifully shown in the movie “In The Mood for Love” directed by Wong Kar-wai. This exceptional film depicts in detail the alluring fashion of Hong Kong in the 1960s, through the stunning qipao dresses worn by Maggie Cheung.

What are the different styles of vintage Qipao?

During the long history of qipao dress also known as cheongsam, it has evolved into three prominent styles: Beijing qipao, Shanghai qipao, and Hong Kong qipao. Each of those qipao styles has its own recognized design, fit, and colors. Let’s look into what makes each type of cheongsam dress special:

Beijing-style qipao: qipao dresses in the Beijing style often emphasize a more traditional and conservative aesthetic compared to other styles. Beijing style also known as Jing Pai style, typically features high collars, long sleeves, and a straight and narrow silhouette. The fabric choices may lean towards more traditional patterns and motifs, with an emphasis on heritage, and cultural symbolism. Beijing-style qipaos are famous for their bright colors, elaborate details, and exceptional hand-made quality.

Shanghai-style qipao: qipao dresses in the Shanghai-style are recognized for their elegance, sophistication, and modern flair. This style of cheongsam dress is called Hai Pai style in Mandarin. Shanghai-style qipaos successfully combined Western and Eastern fashion elements and had their golden era of popularity in the 1930s. They often feature a slimmer and more form-fitting silhouette in comparison to other styles. Shanghai-style qipaos may have lower necklines, shorter sleeves, and higher slits to create a more feminine and alluring look. Fabrics used can range from traditional silk to modern materials like lace or chiffon. 

Hong Kong-style qipao: qipao dresses in the Hong Kong style are a blend of traditional Chinese elements with European influences. They often feature a fusion of Chinese and Western tailoring techniques, resulting in a more relaxed fit and slightly modified silhouette. Hong Kong-style cheongsam has a simple and clean design with shorter sleeves that make them making them versatile and suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

Does traditional Chinese Qipao have slits?

Yes, traditional Chinese qipao dress typically has slits. The original qipao dress was introduced by Manchus while they were ruling China during the Qing dynasty. The Manchu people's qipao was a loose long robe that had from two to four side slits. Those slits allowed for freedom of movement, making it easier to ride horses, do archery, as well as engage in various activities while wearing the authentic qipao dress.

The slits were a distinctive feature of the traditional qipao design and served both functional and aesthetic purposes. They also add an element of grace and elegance to the overall silhouette of the classic qipao during the Qing dynasty.

Do you wear Qipao on Chinese New Year?

Yes, a qipao or cheongsam is a traditional Chinese dress that is commonly worn by women on the Chinese Lunar New Year. The qipao dress, a traditional Chinese garment, symbolizes the rich history and heritage of Chinese culture. Wearing a qipao during the Chinese Lunar New Year is a great way to honor and connect with Chinese traditions. 

Here are some of this holiday’s special customs to keep in mind while choosing your Chinese New Year qipao:

Wearing new clothes: It is customary to wear new clothes during Chinese New Year as a symbol of fresh beginnings and good luck for the year ahead. Many women choose to buy new Chinese New Year qipaos or other festive attire to wear during the celebrations.

Red qipaos and clothing: Red is considered a fortunate color in Chinese culture and is particularly prominent during Chinese New Year. Wearing red clothing, including a red cheongsam, is believed to bring good luck, ward off evil spirits, and symbolize happiness and prosperity.

Gold and yellow qipaos: Bright and lavish gold and yellow can be another great color choice for the Chinese New Year. Those shades signify attracting wealth and financial prosperity into the New Year. You can also wear festive qipaos that feature golden embroidery or golden accessories that can create an elegant and luxurious look.

Avoiding black and white: Black and white clothing is traditionally associated with mourning and funerals in Chinese culture. Therefore, it is generally avoided during Chinese New Year festivities, which are meant to be joyous and celebratory.

Symbolic embroidery: Symbolic embroidery holds great significance in Chinese culture, and it is often featured on qipao dresses for the Chinese Lunar New Year. Wearing embroidered qipaos with those specific Chinese symbols is believed to bring positive energy and blessings for the New Year. Here are some common symbols found in Chinese embroidery and their meanings: 

Peonies: Peonies are considered the "king of flowers" in Chinese culture and embody prosperity, good fortune, and beauty. Embroidered peonies on a qipao represent wishes for a flourishing and prosperous life.

Dragons: Dragons hold a special place in Chinese mythology and represent power, strength, and good luck. Dragon embroidery on a qipao is believed to bring protection and auspiciousness to the wearer.

Phoenix: The phoenix is a mythical bird that symbolizes beauty, grace, and resurrection. Embroidered phoenix patterns on a qipao represent femininity, elegance, and peace.

Fish: Fishes like goldfish, carp, and koi represent abundance, wealth, and prosperity in Chinese culture. Embroidered fish on a qipao symbolize a surplus of blessings and financial success.

Butterflies: Butterflies are associated with joy, happiness, and transformation. Embroidered butterflies on a qipao signify a positive and joyful transformation or wish for a vibrant and colorful life.

Traditional accessories: Along with qipaos, traditional Chinese accessories such as hair ornaments, jade jewelry, and decorative hand fans may be worn during the Chinese Lunar New Year to complement the attire and enhance the traditional and festive look.